Silvana Paternostro

"In the Land of God and Man" A Latin Woman´s Journey.
Plume Books
ISBN 0-452-28030-3
1998


 
"In the Land of God and Man" A Latin Woman´s Journey.
 
I The Invitation
"I like you when you're silent: It's as if you are not there."
Me gustas cuando callas porque estas como ausente
-Pablo Neruda, Poema xv
A man rang the doorbell at my parents' house in Bogotá and handed me an envelope addressed to them in fancy calligraphy. I thanked the messenger and opened the unsealed envelope-an engraved invitation to a reception honoring high-level cabinet members of the Colombian government.
The names on the cream-colored cardboard took me back to my childhood in Barranquilla. Ana Maria and her husband would be hosting the party. She and I had been close growing up; our families took trips together and we slept over at each other's houses. Alvaro, who was in tenth grade when I was in seventh and was friends with the unapproachable boy I had a crush on, was the country's new vice-minister of energy. And the vice minister of agriculture, much to my amusement, was Arturo, who had insistently kissed me when I turned fifteen. Our mothers would have liked it if we had kissed more, because we would probably be married today. In 1976 girls in Barranquilla married the first boy they kissed, mostly, because kissing seemed to go hand in hand with getting pregnant. If I had stayed there, I would be the wife and the mother of the children of a vice-minister with a bright future, a role I was brought up to perform. But I am not wife or mother, a reality that neither I nor anyone who knew me then, would have predicted.
The invitation was tempting. Without hesitation I decided not to go back home to New York that week as planned, but to stay for Ana María's party.
I felt excitement at the thought of talking to Arturo again, more than fifteen years later. He was a university student in Bogotá when we first met, at a funeral, and I was a ninth grader at the American school in Barranquilla, but whenever he was home for holidays he would hurry over to see me. I have fond memories of his visits. Because I had a boyfriend then, his visits were a little illicit, but the truth was that I enjoyed spending time with Arturo more than with José Luis, my novio oficial. I would sit for hours in Arturo's car, parked out in the driveway, and listen to him talk about his life in big, metropolitan Bogotá where he shared an apartment with friends, about the classes he took at the university and the books he read. But what interested me most was when he talked to me about la politica.
José Luis didn't really talk to me about much, other than telling me a million times every day that he loved me forever and that I was his girlfriend and that I would one day be his wife. When we went out he discussed soccer, cars, and the top forty hits on Miami's Y-100 radio station while I sat next to him in silence and he held my hand. José Luis liked telling me what clothes to wear and when to be home. If he called and I was not there, he became impossibly possessive-"Where were you? Who were you there with? Who did you talk to? " One evening he drove away without me because he disapproved of what I was wearing and I refused to change. When I showed up at the party without him, I was told by his friends that I was being disrespectful and that I had better return home immediately. My girlfriends agreed I should not stay at the party. If he had wanted me to change, they added, why was I making such a big deal? It only meant that he was serious about me, that he was really in love with me. I had felt humiliated and angered by José Luis's request. They thought it was romantic.
José Luis and I made up after that fight, but he continued to ask me to change. My skirts were getting shorter and my tops skimpier. I had learned early that it was through being beautiful and seductive that I would be noticed. Every father's dream was that his daughter would grow up to be a Miss Colombia. I was not tall enough to be told that I would be Señorita Colombia, and my face did not have the delicate features of a statuette of the Virgen María. But plenty had shown interest in the forming curves of mi cuerpo and the roundness of mis tetas as I went from child to señorita and I was allowed to wear high heals and stay till midnight at the parties at El Country Club. I went all out. At fifteen I looked like a brown-skinned Lolita with glossy, pouting lips, tight jeans, and six-inch heels. I transformed my mother's scarves into strapless bandeaux which I tied across my chest, and I wore bathing suits that were tinier than the ones most of my friends wore. For a costume party, Mercedes, Claudia and I wore Playboybonny outfits.
To José Luis's complaints I soon had to add my mother's, my sisterts, my grandmotherts. My mother yelled at me because my shorts were too short. To make a point of how small my green and purple bathing suit was, my sister tried it on her doll. I am a little over five two, but my body was definitely more formed than the doll's. I knew that in my swimsuits my breasts looked like Farrah Fawcett's in the poster all the boys liked, and I liked the way my buttocks sneaked out of my cutoffs like slivers of crescent moons. But it was confusing to be reprimanded for the one thing that I had been hearing a girl should most want to be.
The way I looked reflected little about the way I acted. My mother told me I looked like a putica, a little slut, every time I wore those cutoffs. But I knew putas were the girls who slept around, and I had barely been kissed. I had, sort of, kissed José Luis and Arturo, but I really had not encouraged it. The first time José Luis kissed me, I gagged. It felt like such an intrusion. But he pressed me so much that I would let him, just to get it over with. I assumed I had to-he was my boyfriend. When he did, I closed my eyes tight, opened my lips, and waited as he slid his toogue inside my mouth. It felt just like when the doctor checked my throat with a wooden stick, telling me to open wide and say aaaahhhh.
I preferred kissing Arturo. Somehow it felt less forced. Plus, Arturo was the first person who had shown any interest in what I had to say. One day he tried to kiss me and I did not want to. He did not press for my kiss, as my boyfriend did, but he got angry, and although I didn't mean to make him angry, it was not dear to me why it was necessary to kiss when talking felt better-more satisfying and somehow more intimate.
I never discussed how it felt to kiss Arturo or José Luis with anybody, not even with my best friend, although I knew Eugenia and Carlos also kissed. Carlos was one of José Luis's close friends and sometimes on Friday nights the four of us would drive around the thirty blocks of upscale Barranquilla that circumscribed our small world, listening to Barry White and Julio Iglesias. José Luis drove and I sat next to him changing the tapes. Eugenia and Carlos kissed in the backseat. After a while, Carlos drove while we sat in the back and kissed. Eugenia tells me now that she loved to kiss Carlos but Carlos, unlike José Luis, was not her novio and she was heartbroken when, at the end of that year, he had to get married. Vicky, his real novia, was pregnant.
Three, sometimes four times a night the four of us would drive past El Gusano, Barranquilla's hottest discotheque. It was on the Boulevard del Prado, the city's main drag where prostitutes and men with fully developed breasts, coiffed hair, and heals strolled up and down the avenue or leaned against the dry palm trees. We all knew about the prostitutes, but I did not know that the transvestites wore so much gold lamé to attract customers-other men who paid to have sex with them.
Every time we drove by the nightclub, which was owned by José Luis's friend, whoever was at the wheel would honk at the club's doorman. Sometimes José Luis and Carlos parked the car and walked inside-to buy cigarettes, they said-while Eugenia and I stayed in the car. José Luis would always bring back lemonade and Chiclets for me. Shortly before midflight he drove by for the last time, signaling to the doorman that they would be back. Eugenia and I would be driven home and dropped off in time for our midnight curfews. They would head back to The Worm. Whenever I asked to be taken there José Luis insisted it was not a place where I-a good girl-could go.
Being with Arturo was different. When he called, I felt that instead of policing my days he actually wanted to talk with me.
When he was with me, I don't think he noticed much what I wore. I am pretty sure he too went to The Worm, but when he was with me he was never in a hurry to meet up with his friends. In fact, sometimes he stood them up and stayed with me longer. We would talk and kiss until very late, way past my curfew. I liked the fact that Arturo did not respect my father's rules. José Luis by contrast felt like the executioner, one of many reasons that made him the perfect boyfriend in my parents' eyes. My friends also found him pretty enviable. He visited and phoned daily and showered me with gifts-delicate gold bracelets, tiny heart-shaped diamonds, and tons of Toblerone.
Arturo gave me a book. From Bogotá he brought me Machiavellits The Prince. "I'm happy," he announced, "I found it with a prologue by Napoleon. " When he handed it to me, he called me muñeca and said, "Here, start learning something about the world." I never really read it then, but I loved opening it to the page where he had written with his gold Cross pen: "This, undoubtedly a maíor dassic about Politics, leads us inevitably to think that la Vida y la Politica are a long Machiavellian comedy of desires, aspirations, successes, and failures where the human soul will find enough elements to develop its feelings." Arturo's words, like the allegory of the fox and the state, made little sense to me then, but I liked the feeling owning that book gave me. I liked his handwriting, which seemed so grown-up to me. The way he signed his name, pressing hard on the paper, reminded me of my father's formal script. They were signatures that emanated self-confidence, authority, and importance. They belonged to men, about whom I was consumed with curiosity. What they did, how they talked seemed much more alive than what the women did.
I felt I owned knowledge and shared some of that self-assurance every time I held the thin paperback edition I kept, for years, inside the drawer of my pink night table. Unlike José Luis's tokens of love, which to me felt like things that I should want but actually didn't, Arturo's book made me feel special, like he was talking with me, not making me. At night, after my sister had gone to sleep, I opened it, turned pages without reading them, read sentences without understanding them, wondering, after turning out the lights, what he meant every time he talked about the importance of politics. Later on, however, I would understand that the politics Arturo talked about-like Machiavelli, my boyfriend, my father, and for that matter any man I came into contact with- was a world that I could not enter for one simple reason. I was not a man.
I have always lived among men who were born to talk politica, to do politica, even to rule. Because I was curious, I was allowed an occasional taste of their exclusive world. I was allowed to dance around them, to ask a few questions, to dabble with a few opinions, but if I probed further I was sent rapidly back to my place. I was to be next to them as a daughter, eventually as a potential wife, but not on a par with them, not as an equal. I was born into a class where the men rise to be leaders, and I was shown early on that I was not to become one. My place as a woman was as a follower, and how presumptuous of me to think otherwise. Both men and women knew that this inequality was sanctioned and enforced by rule, customary law, culture, religion, tradition, and history. Machismo, or whatever one calls it, is a rigid system that both men and women promulgate. "It is not attractive to be so opinionated," a boyfriend's mother once told me as a piece of complicit feminine advice.
Men and women today roll their eyes at me, subtly edge away, or change the topic of conversation whenever mention is made of this book. Many like to argue that things are different and that I do not know it because I am out of touch with my culture. Friends will remind me that I haven't really lived in Latin America, that I left twenty years ago. Things have changed, they say. In some ways, I know, they have. Women now do not need their hasbands' permission to work outside the home or open a bank account. Today, women make up half of the labor force. I am also aware that in Colombia, for example, half the university graduates are women. I even recognize there has been some room in politics. Latin women have served as attorney general, prime minister, vice president, even as president. In 1997, twenty-three women served as ministers, two as presidents of Congress. Ecuador and Costa Rica have women as vice presidents. Women are aspiring to the presidencies of Colombia, Venezuela, and Honduras. Nonetheless, I am not satisfied. Women have entered the work force as secretaries, bank tellers, even officers and a few highranking executives, but the reality is that less than one percent are decision makers and most women work as domestic servants or maquila operators receiving exploitative wages and no health benefits. Regardless of the hype about the number of women in government, they only occupy about twelve percent of the legislative seats. It is men who are still making the rules.
Spaces open up for women if they enter public life ready to follow men's roles. When, in 1996, Ecuadoreans elected a woman as vice president, Rosalia Arteaga was able to name three women to the cabinet. Guadalupe León, known as a social researcher working on gender issues, was named minister of labor, the first woman to hold the post. A few days before she was sworn in, she attended a dinner given by the president to introduce his new cabinet. She had heard through a friend, mule, also a member of the new government, that some members were nervous about her nomination. He called early the next morning to congratulate her. Everyone-he reiterated, everyone-was commenting on how impressed they had all been with her, how professional she had seemed..
She was startled. "But," she told her friend. "I didn't utter a word all night."
"That's exactly right."
Few women challenge the more-than-five-hundred-year-old system that makes men the executors of our lives: as our fathers, as our husbands, as our spiritual and secular leaders, as our governors. In Barranquilla, I grew up guided by big and small signals that would prompt me to follow this rule unquestioningly. I was educated to follow God and men, programmed to think of myself as an obedient daughter until the day I was handed to a husband, someone con un apellido, a member of El Country, a photocopy of my father. My future was predetermined by everyone around me. I was to be the wife of a man like José Luis or Arturo.
But a few months after I turned fifteen, my parents decided to send me away to school, and I left behind the path that had been traced for me the day I was carried home from the hospital with my tiny earlobes pierced, wearing pink.I finished high school in the United States, where I stayed on for college. Ever since, I have been a rootless contradiction: too impetuous, emotional, and erratic for New York; too independent for Barranquilla where una mujer que vive sola really means she is loose.
When the counselor at the Academy of the Sacred Heart called me into her office to talk to me about college plans, I had none. I had never thought that, like Arturo, I could go to college. Unlike my classmates who had been practicing for their SATs for years, all I had heard about my future was about el dia que te cases. It was marriage, not college, that would hand me a life. Then suddenly, at that formative age, the heavy rules I had known, and had always had a hard time following, were breached. I was able to see, hear, experience differently-so much so that today, almost twenty years later, it is still hard for me to go back to Colombia and feel comfortable being the woman I have become.
I looked at the invitation again. My friend Ana María's name had changed. Joined by the seemingly insignificant but so meaningful two-letter word de, "of," she had added her husband's surname after hers. Though I had been surrounded by women whose names included this possessive preposition-my mother, my grandmothers, their mothers, my teachers, my aunts all use it-I was always struck on seeing it added to any woman's name. But I was especially jarred when I saw it next to the names of my childhood friends-surprised that none of them minded bocoming in such a public and formal way a man's belonging.
It would be easier to understand if the de were something I saw only among those girlfriends who never left Barranquilla to study abroad, who never lived on their own, who went from their twin beds to their marital beds. Julieta, who married a distant relative of mine when she was, at the most, seventeen, was among the brightest in her class, but she stopped studying the day she got married-pregnant, of course. She moved in with her husband's parents while he finished medical school and she became a wife and mother who stayed home. During my confusing first week as a freshman at the University of Michigan, I received a letter from Julieta which didn't help clarify my thoughts. I still remember feeling a tinge of envy when I saw the return address on the tiny envelope filled with teddy bears and balloons in which she announced the birth of her son. While I was struggling with sharing a small room with Jodi, my strange roommate who liked to be called Jazz and whose eyes were as open as Marty Feldman's, Julieta shared her bed with a man who had given her a name- Julieta S. de Gutiérrez-the passport to enter a real life. At her age, she could not vote, yet she belonged to a man and that made her into a grown-up. As I reread her letter, today, I realize it is the note of a child:
¡Hola Silvana!
How are you? q'tal el cole . . . The baby is born, he is
pretty, blond, chubby and blue-eyed. Everyone is crazy about
him. My dad is all excited because he looks like him.
Can you imagine-me, a mom. I myself can hardly believe it.
Write to me, kisses
Juli
But Ana María, like me, had been exposed to more: boarding school in New York City, college on the East Coast, frequent trips to Europe. After graduating from college in Virginia, she returned to Bogotá and started working for her father, the president of one of Colombia's largest engineering firms. Ana María became her father's right hand, a position that put her in touch with the country's lines of power. She was soon working around the clock, hopping on a helicopter to visit a bridge in construction or negotiating a contract for a new road for the government. At a meeting at the Ministry of Public Works she met the undersecretary who less than a year later became her husband.
Ana María married with all the pomp that was expected. The cheeses were imported from Curaçao. The carrots were flown in from Miami. She was the first one of my friends who did not have to marry in a hurry-she was not pregnant. She also continued to work and waited more than a year to have her first child. To my mother, she is admirable. She is an ejecutiva, my mother tells me, trumpeting her success loud enough for me to feel uncomfortable, especially when she gets to the part about how she is also a wonderful wife, a great hostess, and a devoted mother. But whenever I hear the praises, I cannot stop myself from thinking that she, too, signs her name as a possession. I tell myself that maybe Ana María doesn't see it that way. But how can calling yourself and signing your name Señora de-Mrs. of-not give you a sense of being owned? What is her need for doing so? I've always wondered.
When Julieta and Ana María married-Julieta in 1978 and Ana María in 1982-they had, by law, to sign their names thus, to be identified as the possession of a man. In Ecuador, the civil code still requires the "de," and in Venezuela, not using it was considered by the law a "grave insult" and was grounds for divorce. Until recently, men had patriarchal authority, patria potestad, over all decisions involving a couple and their children. Under Latin American law, which is based on the Napoleonic code, men are the sole heads of the marital unit because women, like children and the retarded, are seen by the state as creatures incapable of full development and therefore in need of protection, protection provided by men-fathers, brothers, husbands. The management of the family is in the husband's hands. Without his consent, the wife could not accept or relinquish an inheritance, act as a guardian, or exercise a profession. By taking on the names of their husbands, my friends had acquiesced in such imprisonment.
Latin America's constitutions have been rewritten since then. There is legal recognition of the individuality and equality of women. As of 1988, Colombian women do not have to use the infamous two-letter word. But customs, which are followed more strict, than law, have yet to catch up. Most women in Latin America still use the de attached to their names. I am surprised not only to see my friends using it but to see it attached to the names of women who are working on women's issues. A woman who considere herself a feminist was asked why she used it. She was quick and point out that she was married to a very good man. Does that then make it okay?
And still there are laws that perpetuate inequality. In Bolivia, a married woman cannot buy property without the consent of the husband, and, as in Guatemala, he can prohibit her from takin certain jobs. Children born out of wedlock are automatically in the custody of the "supposed" father. In Peru, women are not allowed to work the night shift, or to work in mining, in construction, or in anything that will jeopardize their health or their "good manners." Young boys swarm the streets of Lima shining shoes, selling newspapers, flowers, candy, or lottery tickets. Girls cannot. In Panama, if a married woman wants to open her own business, she needs to present an authorizing letter from her husband to the ministry of commerce in order to get an operating license. In Ecuador, a divorced woman who wants to remarry needs a certificate that states that she is not pregnant. In Chile, there is no divorce.
I had been in Colombia only a few days when the invitation to Ana María's reception arrived. Being back was always tense. I feel my life stops when I'm in Colombia and I'm thrown into the whirlwind of the mundane and now foreign concerns of others. My family's and my friends' lives-their meals, their laundry, their ringing phones, their cocktail parties, even the way they express themselves-do not belong to me. A friend tells me she could not visit her brother in Miami because her husband "didn't let me go" and a friend of my sister's, a working woman, says that she cannot go away on a work trip because her husband "does not allow me to spend a night out of the house." Words like this leave me feeling as if I've landed, not in my childhood home, but on Mars. This regimented world where every day, after lunch, the men go to work and the women stay behind-sitting at the table, smoking a cigarette-has always felt uncomfortable. I have sat through many meals, I have smoked many cigarettes, yet I've been unable to play the part of "woman" the way they play it. If I were married to Arturo, as I dreamt of all those years ago when he gave me The Prince, how would I feel asking for his permission to write this book or to go on a trip?
When I told Arturo I was leaving for the United States, he told me that if he were my father, he would never send his daughter to the States. Girls are different there, he said. If I went, I would get a bad reputation. My mother's friends told her the same. She tried to explain I was going to an all-girl Catholtic school, the prestigious Sacred Heart where all the Kennedy girls go, but it was impossible to get them to change their image of the United States where girls are libertinas, a disparaging word freely used to describe girls who have sex with their boyfriends. My mother talked to me before I left. Don't feel any pressure to be like them, she kept telling me as my departure grew closer. Do not forget, she said, the principles you have learned in your home. Completely sincere in my promise, I reassured her that I wouldn't.
As she had warned me, my new classmates seemed to fit the bill of libertines. In 1978 the sexual revolution had even reached the halls of the Academy of the Sacred Heart. My American friends not only had sex with their boyfriends but they actually planned for it. Laura had her boyfriend Tim stay for the weekend whenever her parents went away.
Situations like this shocked me at first and, when alone, I would hold tight to Arturo's words and my mother's advice. Barranquilla's mores were so deeply ingrained, so hard to root out, that it was only during my junior year in college that I was finally ready to allow a boyfriend into my bed. When Laura found out that my boyfriend was spending the night, she made sure she talked to me about birth control-and, oh boy, was I not open to her concern. Three years after my arrival in the United States, I was living on my own, yet I had never spoken to anyone about sex. Laura's questioning offended me-did she think I was one of them? How could I tell her we weren't really doing "it," that we just kissed and slept, that if she walked with me past the lions guarding the steps of the graduate library, she could hear them roar. College lore had it that the imposing statues knew when a virgin passed by-but no one had heard their call since 1868.
What would have happened to me if I had not left when I did? Those that stayed-Eugenia, Julieta, many others-were pregnant before finishing high school and, most probably, before ever having a discussion about sex, let alone one about birth control. While girls in Barranquilla kissed and got pregnant, girls in the U.S. talked about sleeping with their boyfriends and were likely to be on the pill or to know how to use a diaphragm. And I, at the time, only thought of my new classmates as being a bad influence on me, not as contributing to my becoming responsible about my sexuality.
Because I left, I did not have to marry the first boy I kissed. My friends did and today they have children in their teens. When I go back, my outspoken aunts and my friends ask with amusement and with shock, "And so who are you with now?" I have become the gringa libertina they predicted. If someone asked my parents today for advice on whether to send their daughters to study abroad, they, I think, would agree with Arturo. I'm sure glad they sent me, though.
I heard my mother's voice through the kitchen entrance. She was telling the cook what to prepare for dinner as I walked in with Ana María's invitation.
"I think I'll stay for this," I said, handing her the envelope.
"It's a great idea," she said. "You'll get to see all your old friends."
"That's what I thought."
When my father was my age, he had a wife and three kids, sat on a different board of directors every day of the week, presided over Barranquilla's Chamber of Commerce, and worked closely with the Colombian president. Every Sunday we went to Mass, usually at six in the evening at the Inmaculada, where the lulling sound of the breeze against the coconut palms entered the open windows and rocked me into a doze. I would not really understand, or listen to, what the priest was saying; unlike the good feeling I got from Arturo's book, Mass was not something that interested or intrigued me. Sitting on a loog pew, standing, and kneeling repeating over and over a litany of words that sounded as if something very important and very bad had been our fault seemed incomprehensible and unfair. What was it that was por mi culpa, por mi culpa, por mi propia culpa? My eyelids often felt very, very heavy as I pondered, as Padre Becerra spoke, what we had done that required repentance with such guilt and remorse. I couldn't think of anything I had done. Did calling my sister fat or locking myself in the bathroom to read Henry Miller qualify?
At eight I had my First Communion, which meant I would be a sinner if I didn't attend Mass with my parents every Sunday at dusk. By then, I also knew the prayers and every one of the priest's lines by heart and the only part I looked forward to was when the priest would lift his hands and bid us offer each other the sign of peace. People hugged their neighbors, kissed their families, waved and winked to their friends. Iri Barranquilla darse la paz took forever. But that was not enough to make me want to go back every Sunday. Trying to stay home to study for an invented test or complaining of a sudden stomachache never worked. I would hear how I should have done my homework before church and how going to church was as important as finishing schoolwork, especially after having had my First Communion. Faking a stomachache was scarier. The religion teacher had told us God knew everything, including, I assumed, if I had a real stomachache.
Communion, I was told, meant I was receiving the body of Christ. It was frightening and hard to imagine how it was possible that the same thin, long-haired, bearded man on the cross next to my grandmother's bed was going to be entering my body in the form of a thin and bland full moon, but when I asked I was told, sternly this time, that these were the mysteries of God and His Church. My front teeth were not yet fulIy out when, dressed like a child bride, I received the body of Christ for the first time. My long white dress came from Spain, where cloistered nuns had spent months embroidering it. I wore a veil with a train and I wanted to wear the ring with the yellow heart that I had received at a birthday party but my mother said no, the day was too special for a plastic ring. I woke up very early that moroing, before my mother did, to comb my hair and practice saying amen in front of the mirror.
I never stopped being nervous whenever it was my turn for the priest to place the white wafer on my tongue. The religion teacher and my grandmother had told me to pray and think about Christ the moment we felt His body in our mouth. But all I could think of was how the tasteless wafer was sticking to the roof of my mouth and how I had been instructed not to chew but to suck. Sucking only made it stick more, and regardless of how hard I pressed my tongue to my palate, it stayed stuck. Mass would soon be over but the taste of the body of Christ remained.
As we walked out, my parents always ran into friends, married couples with children, families that looked like ours. The parents would exchange greetings, stop and chat under the almond tree
in need of rain. The men-a senator, the city's governor, the mayor of the moment, the movers and shakers-gathered in a circle. The wives stood in silence or talked with each other outside the circle. They all looked well-dressed and poised but my mother was always the prettiest. While the other children ran back and forth from the parked cars to their parents' side, I would just stand by my father and listen to the men's conversation, which always started with the same line-"Ajá y que hay de nuevo en la politica. "
My father, like Arturo, like all men I knew, talked incessantly about politics. At family gatherings, my grandfather and uncles and father sat around discussing the Conservative Party while the women sat in silence or made sure their husbands didn't need a new drink. During election time my father was always busy campaigning and fund-raising for his party. He was proud of the Christmas card he received every year from Alvaro Gómez Hurtado, the Party's leader, thanking him for all he had done.
The only time I saw my mother participate in politics was when, right before elections, the women, the wives of the politicos, would meet at one of their homes and help stuff envelopes with voting sheets. On election day they wore T-shirts stamped with their hnsband's faces and handed out envelopes at the voting stations. The servants in our homes were each handed one, and their patrones would tell them that they wanted them to vote for the Conservative or the Liberal candidates. It was hard to escape voting for the candidate of their choice, or to keep your vote private. Up until recently, the voterts index finger was submerged in blue ink if the vote was cast Conservative, in red if it had been Liberal. (This could have serious consequences. During the 1940s and 1950s, Conservatives and Liberals staged one of the most violent witchhunts in history-shooting, stabbing, burning each other's property, and leaving more than 250,000 Colombians dead.) Upper-class Colombians like to marry within their class and within their party, and the man of the house expects his sons, daughters, wives, and servants to vote with him.
This is not unusual. During Mexico's 1994 elections, women complained that their husbands were taking away their voting cards, preventing them from casting votes of their own. Machismo transcends country and class borders. Chicano workers in California, striking at a cannery in Watsonville, received little support from their compañeros, who preferred them to be at home cooking, not demanding better salaries. Many women were forbidden outright to stand on the picket line.
I was convinced Arturo was different. He was even supportive when I decided to go on to college. I am also sure that I chose to major in Political Science because it was what sounded the closest to what he talked to me about. I still carried around, unread, the little book he had given me. Freshman year, he wrote frequently. In his letters he sent strength and advice-"I hope that when I see you, you will have many things to teach me about that beautiful profession you chose." To keep me up to date with his successes, he sent all the newspaper stories that were being written about him. Right out of school, he was already some kind of public person. He had been named director for health services, and also selected as Ejecutivo del Año, as my father had been at his age. I was proud of Arturo's accomplishments, but what I really liked was that he shared them with me while calling me his muñeca. "When you return I will show you the books I read about politics. They are really excellent and they really deserve my hours of dedication. You will see."
In an effort to bring him together with what I was reading- Locke, Hobbes, Marx, Rousseau, an English edition of The Prince, flyers announcing demonstrations on campus, U.S. hands off EI Salvador, Disinvest in South Africa-I kept his letters mixed with the mess on my desk. I anxiously anticipated our reunion in which I too would show him my books, in which I would kiss him fiercely before he would kiss me, in which I would no looger simply sit in admiration, listen, and ask questions but would also tell him what I had learned about his politica.
Upon my return, I traveled to Monte Carmelo, my grandfather's finca, an incongrous name in this case, for the "farm" is bigger than some American national parks. Arturo's family's finca is nearby and I knew he was there that week. I called him and he promised to come over that evening. After a year of learning politics from lefty, ex-draft-dodging professors, the place where as a child I had milked its cows, swum its river, saddled its horses became a microcosm of income disparity and exploitation. When Arturo arrived I wanted him to be Che-he insisted on Machiavelli. As I walked him to the gate and he said good-bye, I knew that that would be the last time he would call me.
I would now see him at Ana María's party, I thought. We could reminisce about our talks, even laugh at our youthful intolerance. In Ann Arbor I had discovered liberation theology and leftist politics, theories about the culture of imperialism, CIA plots in Central America, sit-ins and demonstrations-the staples of a college campus at the end of the 1970s. My student days opened a Latin America that Arturo had maybe seen but had refused to recognize. We were adults now, he a minister, I a journalist. It would be fun, I thought as I passed my index finger over his name in haut-relief on the invitation.
AQUI ME QUEDE
Seeing Arturo's name next to an important title was not surprising to me. At an early age, young and privileged men like him are seduced by politics, by prestige, and by power. Being a viceminister in your early thirties is, I think, an act of arrogance, but in a way this is an arrogance that is instilled in these men the day they are born. It is pretty much par for the course. Arturo is an upper-class man, in a world owned completely and absolutely by them. As far as the hierarchy goes, he is at the top. This is a world where some people-the rich, the white (or, more accurately, the less mixed), the politicos, the industrialists, landowners like Arturo's father, like my grandfather-have a lot, and where many more people have very little. But regardless of which side of the tracks you're born on, the rich or the poor, the men who own the land or the men who work it, it is a world where men have carte blanche in domination of their women. Just as my grandfather expected my grandmother to vote Conservative, our gardener expected his wife, our cook, to give him her salary. As recently as 1995, a Panamanian husband sought to divorce his wife because she did not cook him dinner or take his clothes to the dry deaner. That she worked full-time was irrelevant in his view. Those chores, he argued, fall under her obligations.
More dramatically, and regardless of the fact that in the last two decades most constitutions have been rewritten, the judicial system throughout Latin America will rarely convict a man who kills his adulterous wife-men have a right to defend their honor. In Panama, until 1991, for a man to be adulterous, the relationship had to be scandalous and continuous. For a woman, it took one slip. A rape victim in Peru was told by the judge that, as she was not a virgin at the time, it did not really matter that she was raped. Her rapist would be relieved of prison if he offered to marry her. And as in thirteen other countries-Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Panama, and Paraguay-a rapist may go free if he marries his victim with her consent. In Costa Rica, a rapist may go free even if he marries the raped woman without her consent.
In Argentina, last year, a cook accused of systematically raping his eleven-year-old stepdaughter every time the girl's mother-his wife-left for work was immediately released from prison when he announced he would marry the girl. Under Article 132 of the Penal Code, his ten-year sentence would be repealed if the marriage took place: " In the case of violation, rape, kidnap or dishonest abuse of a single woman, the delinquent who will marry the offended will be exempt of his sentence, if she consents after she is restituted to her parents' home or to another safe place."
The girl, who was pregnant, accepted the offer-with her mother's consent-to marry her mother's husband, her rapist, so that the newborn would have un papá.
The fascination I had felt listening to my father and to Arturo discuss politics mutated into real concern after college. I discovered that journalism would allow me to infiltrate their separate dusters. And I would be better equipped to crawl inside if I covered Latin America as the gringa they thought I was becoming. As one, I could comment on and question the politica that once I had felt they kept me out of for the simple reason that I was not a man. While I lived in rented rooms in Managua and Mexico and squatted in friends' homes in Panama stringing for newspapers as a way to understand the politics that I had been surrounded by and at the same time shunned from, back home José Luis, Arturo and about a dozen more friends acted as patrician adults, walking the halls of power in Bogotá, leading the lives my father and their fathers led at their age. While I voted en blanco as a form of protest, my brother was ready to vote Conservative.
But following, in this case, was an act of preserving their selfinterest. The State in Colombia has always guarded the economic interests of the country's patriarchal oligarchy-an elite that still depends for its survival on a class-divided society and on women being excluded from public life. When I become ohnoxiously repetitive during family dinners about the fact that Bogotá's Jockey Clab will not admit women as members, a friend, in jest, provides me with the clearest answer. "If we do," he says, "what will we have left?"
In Colombia-and, in Latin America from Mexico all the way down to Argentina-just as landowners are not eager to divide up their huge parcels of uncultivated land to the campesinos who live on it and work it, men are not ready to see women as free participants in the country's civil society. They are more than happy to continue to see women as wives, mothers, virgins, or whores, but not as engineers, journalists, lawyers, surgeons, or statesmen. We are still encouraged to want to be beauty queens and soapopera heroines, beautiful and virginal. The ones who kiss with their mouths closed are always rewarded with the successful and handsome husbands.
I feel the eyes rolling again, of men and women who will accuse me of exaggerating. Look at how many women in Colombia are in altos cargos. Great! I say. Before Madeleine Albright was named secretary of state, Colombia named a woman minister of foreign affairs. True! And women all the way from Argentina to Mexico have been appointed to high governmental office. I know about those twenty-three ministerial posts, three vice presidencies, two presidents of Coogress. But let me point something out. Men, knowing that it is politically necessary to name a few token women, do it with a certain discretion. They feel fine relinquishing the ministries of education, tourism, culture, not to mention family and women's affairs. As a matter of fact, of the twentythree ministers, only three are in different ministries. In Colombia and Mexico, María Emma Mejía and Rosario Green are foreign ministers, and in Chile, Soledad Alvear heads the Justice Department.
But comments like the one I heard in Ecuador are more eloquent than the actual appointments about how men in power see the appointment of women. "It's really nice to have ladies in the meeting of Congress," the first secretary of governmenr said, referring to the possible appointment of a woman to the Ministry of Tourism. "I would like it very much if Soledad Diab were made responsible for the Ministry of Tourism, not only because she is a beautiful woman but also because she knows about the field." Is it a coincidence that Irene Saez, the woman running for president of Venezuela is a former Miss Universe?
Venezuelan elections are scheduled for December 1998 and the thirty-six-year-old former Miss Universe appears to be a serious contender despite her limited political experience. She has served as mayor of Chacao, the richest part of Caracas, where she has started early morning tai-chi classes for the elderly, two orchestras, and a school of ballet. She has also outlawed "passionate" kissing in public. But as Agustín Blanco, a professor of history at the Catholic University of Venezuela, told the New York Times, "what people vote for is the image of a beautiful woman not a woman who is judged on her intelligence, her capacity and accomplishment."
Like my friends, like their friends, my parents married young. My father was twenty-two. My mother was eighteen. She went to a convent school, where she sFowered wearing a thin white role over her body. She left before finishing to marry him, to be de mi papá, to go with him to New York while he finished a master's degree in economics. Three months after their marriage, she was pregnant with me.
I saw a picture taken in the midst of a Syracuse winter. She stands next to him, snow up to her ankles in a setting that for her must have felt like the moon. She had never felt cold or spoken English. Yet in her face I can sense that she feels protected by him on this new planet. Despite his young age, my father radiates power through the photograph. He looks like a bull ready to take on any matador, and she looks proud to be married to him, as if she needs nothing more in life.
My parents keep a picture of my brother on his graduation day from Culver Military Academy in a silver frame in the family study upstairs. Like my sister and me, and many of our friends, he too was educated abroad. We were all being prepared to take on the roles we were born to play in this Latin opera of feminine submission and masculine power. My sister and I attended an allgirl Catholic high school. Many of our girlfriends spent a year at finishing schools in Switzerland learning French, how to set a formal table and who painted the Mona Lisa. Instead, my brother attended a military academy where many privileged Latin boys his age-he had dassmates from Colombia, Guatemala, El Salvador, Panama-learn discipline. "Very important that he learns discipline," says my father. What they learn, as far as I am concerned, is how to continue thinking the world is theirs. Flipping through my brother's yearbook, I ran across the quote next to the photograph of the graduate from Guatemala: "I want to be democratically elected as dictator of my country."
My brother was barely eighteen when he graduated with medals across his chest. But there is already a look to him in that photograph, regardless of his boyishness. He stares straight at the camera, conveying that he is capable of smashing it if something does not go his way. There is something similar about those two photographs-the way my father stands next to my mother, and the way my brother stands next to the school's gate, with their feet apart and their hands clasped in front-that sends the message that they are confident of their place in their world of power. A power that, in Latin America, is determined by their sex.
I walked into Ana María's grand apartment with my parents. I was nervous and excited, but the way I looked made it easier to stride into the world of white wine and whisky, where every man stood like my brother, stared like my father, and spoke like them both. My mother had spent the last few days maneuvering to make sure I wore something appropriate, so she was delighted. She really suffered every time I came back to visit and wore only blue jeans. The day I told her I would stay for the party, she went through my duffel bag and pulled out a crumpled black taffeta skirt.
"This needs a blouse," she said, lifting it up and heading to her bedroom to call Doña Berta, one of Bogotá's fanciest dressmakers. She pleaded with Doña Berta, who was saying it was impossible to have anything ready on such short notice. She was the busy couturiere of beauty queens and society ladies, and to make a quasi-glitzy blouse for me was not as interesting as the important wedding gowns and the long beaded evening dresses she was used to designing. But my mother, with her usual charm, convinced her. This was urgent.
As I scoured the room for Arturo, I was glad of my mother's insistence. I liked the feel of the black bodice that Berta had made for me. It was long-sleeved, with a round, low neckline, and it was sprinkled with little rhinestones. I looked around the apartment. It was hard for me to grasp that it belonged to someone I once shared teenage secrets with. The dark red damask on the decent replicas of French fauteuils, the perfectly framed scenes of English foxhunts hanging from the walls, and their three-year-old blond boy dressed in his best sailor suit all seemed too incongruous to have any relation to my life. I was a penniless cub reporter traveling like a gypsy from war-torn Nicaragua and polluted Mexico to sensual Riode Janeiro and eerie Paraguay writing about military coups, drag trafficking, political corruption, and the transmission of AIDS in Latin America. This was the home of two people who were traditional, and comfortable with the way things were, who didn't question but followed, I thought. What had happened to me?
Nonetheless, there was a certain familiarity to the scene. Some time ago I learned how to act as a girl of privilege at a cocktail party and, like riding a bicycle, I have not forgotten it. My father held my forearm as he proudly steered me across the room where men stood in small circles holding their drinks.
"Remember my daughter Silvana?" he interrupted. "The one that's a journalist."
But since I am not as tall and striking as my sister, and they could not ask me about my husband or my children, they smiled politely and went back to their conversation about the price of coffee.
My mother called me over to the sofas where the women sat separated from the men. They welcomed me with careful kisses on the cheek, making sure not to smudge their red Chanel lips, and turned to my mother to tell her how happy she must be to have me home, if only for a few days.
"You don't think you'll come back to Colombia?" one of the ladies asked. " You like it there too much. "
"She's too independent for here," another one replied.
A uniformed waiter holding a silver tray handed me a whisky. He was pouring water into my tall glass of Boheme crystal when I spotted Arturo across the room. He, like every other man there, was dressed in a gray suit. I walked over to where he was and stood straight in front of him with a big smile on my face. He stretched his right arm out, and offered me a handshake and an uninterested greeting.
I remained next to him waiting for more.
"So, how many kids do you have now?" he asked politely, in that intimate yet impersonal way people in politics practice so well.
"What? "
"Tienes niños," he repeated. "¿No tienes niños?"
My no was followed by my very own nervous laugh.
"Aren't you married? " he asked, surprised.
"Married. No. Me? No. To whom?" I thought he was joking, that this was his way of breaking the ice.
He insisted. "I don't know, but I thought by now, by now, you would be married. You must be, what, thirty. Right? "
" That's right. I am thirty. "
"Well, I'm sure you do have a boyfriend." His voice had burned paternalistic. "Boyfriend, right?"
"Yes, " I said, "boyfriend. "
"Whenever I ran into your cousin, the one who's married to Felipe, I always ask about you. I thought you had married. I do know you're living in New York, right?"
"Yeah, New York. Finishing my master's at Columbia, international affairs, and I've been reporting from Central America. As a matter of fact, oh, I was just in Mexico working, covering, covering . . . Mexico." I said it all in one breath, a ramble whose only purpose was to give some meaning to my life-a life and work I enjoy, a life that I am proud of and that Arturo with one question had just made all go up in smoke.
I was exculpating myself to Arturo for not being married, for not having children, for my unwillingness to play the game of a woman commanded by her need to be only mother and wife. I felt Arturo's reproach of who I had become and, for the first time, it hurt. Usually I disregard the comments of my mother and my female friends who today have teenage children, when they mention my unmarried status. But Arturo's implied criticism was different. I felt he was putting me down for having followed what he had once started.
I understood that what made me different was not that I was interested in having a career. My mother was right. Many of the women born into my privileged world had college degrees and careers. It was more a question of attitude, a question of how I saw myself vis-a-vis male authority. In this setting, my independence was not attractive, my brashness was unbecoming. I had not followed the advice Colombian women give other women: "A docile character assures happiness in marriage and wil1 make a woman the ideal partner for a man until death."
I guess it's un-decorous for vice-ministers to hug at cocktail parties given in their honor, but that's what I really would have liked. I wasn't there to congratulate him on his new job. I was interested in the person who had, for the first time and in many ways, opened my eyes to a different world from the one that was slated for me. In a way I was there to thank him, to show off a bit because I felt he could recognize his influence. I also wanted to ask him how it felt being so close to power. It must be titillating to feel you belong to the future of a country. At the same time I wanted to take him aside and warn him what happens in the game of politics played by those who follow the rules of the little book he had given me almost twenty years before. But Arturo turned his back and continued talking to the other men in gray suits. (Six months later, in one of the frequent cabinet shuffles, he was replaced.)
After my disappointing encounter, I turned to my mother and her friends. The ladies with the Hermes scarves around their necks and the big pearls clipped to their ears were always warm.
They always seemed to have a good time at cocktails sharing their juicy chismes while lighting each others cigarettes with their 24K gold Dunhills. Instead of financial transactions, government contracts, and soccer scores, they chatted giddily, like girls at a sleepover, about recent divorces and upcoming shopping sprees in New York or Miami.
I arrived to hear a litany of praises for Ana María. The reception was so elegant, her husband was sooooo nice, her son so beautiful, she was so chic, nice, conversadora, inteligente. The lady with the longest nails said that she had heard that for Ernesto Mario- Ana María's father-she was indispensable in the office.
Like my mother, they dream of having a daughter like Ana María. She married into one of Colombia's more traditional families con apellido importante. She is charming and social as can be. They always sound surprised when they add that she has time to be a mother, a wife, an important businesswoman. She doesn't cease to amaze them: She cooks, goes on holidays, gives and attends dinner parties. She might need some help with her taste in clothes and antiques but, nonetheless, she is always bien arreglada, nicely turned out. My mother 's praise for her strikes me as a hint that I should reexamine the way I live. Grow up, she tells me constantly. But what she really means is be a woman-like her, like her friends the charming Chanel ladies, like Ana María.
I gave up the life of a Latin princess when I decided to stay in New York. I traded a big house for four hundred square feet I call home. Instead of having breakfast served to me in bed on a tray I buy coffee at the corner Greek deli. I do not travel in a chauffeured car. My nails are short; my long hair is usually in need of a trim. I do not visit the beauty salon as often as they do. When I have friends over for dinner, I don't rely on several servants to make the soufflé rise and I don't look like I just stepped out of a Saks Fifth Avenue catalog. I do not have a husband who has power lunches, or wants one to use his last name-the one that appears on the gold American Express card that would allow me to go shopping in Miami.
Unlike the women who raised me and those who grew up with me, I've always lacked faith that those "things" that I so much should want would be able to protect me. I've never felt comfortable with taking the steps necessary to have the life I was raised to have. I've wondered many times if, in reality, this is what I truly want and I'm rejecting it because it is what I was told I would have and I don't have it. But it is impossible for me, today, to walk into the life I was born into and not feel the consequences of those shopping trips. I cannot enjoy a lunch with the ladies, un almuerzo de señoras, without thinking that while we are being served a sumptuous meal by servants in aproned uniforms, men, their husbands, are deciding the economic future of our country. While we eat at a table set with Christofle silverware on starched manteles, they are passing laws that will affect us directly. Unless more than 9.4 percent of the legislative seats of the Colombian Congress are filled by women, by women who will change the laws, rape will still be consídered a crime against the state, not against an individual. Abortíon will still be punished with prison while thousands of women will continue to die from them.
It became especially hard to sit still for these five-hour lunches after my visit to the Hispanic AIDS Foram in Jackson Heights, Queens, in 1991.
I was there to see its director, who would explain to me the pattern of transmission of AIDS in the Latino community in New York. Miguelina Maldonado swiveled her chair to grab a black plastic folder with the seal of the City of New York. She opened the report and, out loud, went down the list of categories marked as high risk: homosexuals, MSMs, IVDUs, and blood transfusions. I knew IVDU stood for intravenous drug user but I had to ask Maldonado what MSM meant.
"Oh, you know, m'ija. M-S-M," she said in a strong Puerto Rican accent, "stands for men who have sex with other men."
"Men who have sex with men? "
"Ahhmm."
"Wouldn't they be listed under homosexual transmission? "
She shook her head no and smirked, satisfied she was one up on rne, another Latina.
"Bisexual?" I tried again.
 
" No. Simply men who happen to have sex with men. They are neither homosexual nor bisexual."
"Oh, of course," I said.
Of course.
Being a Latin American woman, as soon as I heard those words I knew what she was talking about. All the jokes and the comments came back: he is such a macho, he tucked another man; marica es el que lo da, faggot is the one who takes it. Stuff I had overheard in the background of boys' conversations all of a sudden became institutionalized, percentages in a study about AIDS. Miguelina and I had started speaking about AIDS and men having sex with other men in the sterilized language of a graduate student and the director of a state-funded social agency. After my second cup of coffee we shed the formalities. I was startled. We agreed that in Latin American culture, two men can have sex, and one of them-the active partner-would never think he has had homosexual sex. We talked for hours trying to come up with some kind of baroque explanation-a mixture of manhood, homophobia, and religious influence that could bring our men to the point of persuading themselves that two men can have sex without it being a homosexual act. But what was really disturbing for us was what this sexual behavior meant for women, partners of men who have sex with other men, with AIDS in the picture. "In this group, she said, "the use of condoms is lower than any other group."
Memories of my youth in Barranquilla sprang up-the car rides on Friday nights, the transvestites walking down the rich boulevard where I grew up, the conversations among men-even boys my age-who referred to men as either machos or maricas, sissies, faggots, el que lo da. Being called a girl was as much of an insult. I remembered my motherts suggestions about what it meant to be a girl, about saving myself for the day I got married, how she I shouldn't wear those shorts that made me look like a slut. I thought of Mrs. Gaspari, the religion teacher, who kept saying that God punishes those girls who look at their bodies naked and I was sure she had said it looking straight at me and I had thought oh my God, she knows, He told her. I also thought about Julieta, Ana María, Lali, Mercedes, Eugenia, my cousin Rosanna-pretty girls who became mothers without ever beirig anything other than pampered daughters living by the codes of our strong fathers. We had strict curfews, we weren't allowed to go to El Gusano, and we were told only bad girls did. When we had boyfriends, they added their own authoritarian rules to those of our fathers: no talking to other boys, no short skirts or small swimsuits, and if there was kissing and touching it was never talked about. The boys respected our imposed curfews, dropping us off at midnight, eager to meet with their friends at El Gusano and, sometimes, at bordellos. It was right there sitting in Queens looking at the number of women being infected with AIDS by their husbands that I realized how dangerous the connection between our sexual culture and the Catholic Church and AIDS was, not only for my friends but for all Latin American women.
I left Maldonado's offfice with the statistics and with my heart pounding. If AIDS is seen as something only gays get, but men are having sex with other men without ever considering their act as a homosexual one but just as something that they occasionally do, where does that leave their women? Girlfriends who have been raised to think of their sexuality as sinful and unmentionable, and wives who have sex when they are ordered to?
I spent the following six months traveling around South America interviewing epidemiologists, sociologists, gay activists, transvestites, prostitutes, wives. My fear was confirmed when I read a study by the Colombian epidemiologist Dr. Juan Eduardo Céspedes. A housewife in Latin America, asserted Dr. Céspedes, is at higher risk of contracting AIDS than a prostitute.
" Why? "
"The hidden bisexua,iity of Latin men."
That same week I was told that eighty percent of the wives who had tested HIV-positive at Bogotá's Simón Bolívar Hospital had been infected because of the bisexual activity of their husbands. Most of these women had married as virgins. Their husbands were the only man they had made love to.
I faxed my story to Tom Schroder at the Miami Herald.
"Wow," he said. "This is pretty explosive. You are sure about what you are saying?"
"Yes," I said.
"Well, we are going to check it with our bureaus down there. We need to be very sure, you know. In Latin America when the Miami Herald says something, then it becomes a fact. People really read this paper carefully, and we are about to say that all these married men are having sex with other men and they don't think that's having sex with a man. I've never heard of such a thing."
"I'm sure, Tom," I said. "Listen, there are many references in literature. Vargas Llosa mentions it in La ciudad y Los perros."
"That's literature. This is stating it. I need to be very careful. I need to get ready to answer a lot of angry calls and letters."
The MiamiHerald received no phone calls and no letters, which to me meant it is better to leave the earth unturned when what is to be uncovered might prove impossible to deny.
When I decided to write this book, I knew a big part of my interest was selfish. I would be able to ponder the string of questions that, like douds over my head, have accompanied me on my travels as I go from my small apartment in New York City to Ana María's floor-through in Bogotá to my grandparents' house in Barranquilla. My experience is not unique. It is that of a privileged white woman cafe con leche, really-who grew up as the princess in a fairy tale and was given the chance of breathing a little of the air outside her provincial palace. Women like me have been accused of being influenced by the United States; we are told that our ideas are foreign and imperialist to our societies, that everyone is fine with the way things are, that machismo is a fact of life. "Relax. Lay back," everyone remarks when I try to explain. "You're becoming too American. Find a husband cásate." In other words, get married and shot up. They recognize that their husbands can be impossible, but come on, Los hombres, mija son Los hombres, and with all your talking you are not going to change that. You are just going to scare them away. Un poquito de astucia femenina, un poquito de resignación, y cada una con su cruz.
I guess it is easier to justify if one lives in great comfort and with the status of a married woman. To them, my life might be as mysterious and as foreign as a French film but equally unappealing They have no interest in living like me. New York is great- theatre, restaurants, stores-but, for a few days. Who could dream of life with no servants?
But as I talk to the women I do not know as well, the women who live in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo, the women who fought against the Somoza dictatorship in Nicaragua, the young women who support themselves by selling their bodies for sex in Bogotá or Recife, the street girls who sniff glue and beg for money in Montevideo, the housemaids with long black braids and Inca faces in the households of Quito, I realize that I cannot accept those answers and that the clouds of questions become larger, darker. A storm of resent ment approaches those, even my friends, who do not see that they are victims of their own "perfect" condition.
My need to run out, to leave the lunches and explore why there are so many transvestites on the main avenues of Latin American cities, why millions of young boys and girls prefer to leave their homes, even if poor, for the streets where they are exposed to the inclemencies of weather, brutality, danger, and disease, is not because I want to satiate an isolated personal curiosity about untraditional sexual practices or because my heart weeps when an eight-year-old gamin with grimy, rosy cheeks asks me if I can give him a home. It is because I now recognize the chain of events that leads an eighteen-year-old to sell his body to pay for his ten-dollar room at night, even though he knows he is HIV-positive. Most women might think of transvestites as carnival creatures, and of street children as unfortunates but potential criminals whom they most keep at arm's length even when giving them a handout on the streets; I see them as a consequence of a set of practices and beliefs that are closer than those women ever thought to their bedroom lives.
"My clients?" says the eighteen-year-old boy sitting on the steps of the Terrazas Pasteur, the shopping center in downtown Bogotá where he starts soliciting work at three every afternoon. I can't tell you exactly, because they are so different. My clients are soldiers, viejos borrachos, businessmen, married men, construction workers, even rich men who come with their Mercedes-Benz."
 
 
Transvestites have told me what they do for work, who their clients are, how many times they wear condoms. Street boys have spoken about why they ran away from home. Women in Cuba, in Nicaragua, and in Brazil who joined and worked closely with armed liberation movements have confirmed that the men who believed in Che Guevara also believe that a woman's place is in the mountains but doing the cooking. Priests who have challenged the orthodoxy of their Church and demanded social justice are not ready to challenge the Church on women's reproductive rights.
This is where this book stops being my own private cry, and I start seeing it as a call to all women from Mexico to Argentina-a call to ponder just for a second the world of behavior that results from having men decide for us and dictate our laws. Unless we stop this process, we can die from a dangerous self-induced abortion, we can find ourselves being HIV-positive having slept with just one man, or we can be forced to marry our rapist.
As I've mentioned, fourteen Latin American penal codes exonerate a rapist who offers to marry the victim and is accepted. In Peru, when Beatriz Merino Lucero, the president of the congressional committee on women, tried to introduce a bill that would eliminate this provision, the judicial committee, a committee composed of men, kept the basic tenet of the law. The only part dropped was a 1991 revision that allowed one of the participants in a gang rape to be exonerated if he offered to marry the victim. If Merino, a Harvard-educated lawyer, were to present her petition to a judicial committee composed more of women, the outcome would have, most likely, been different. This is exactly my point. It's not enough to be satisfied that women are being educated, are in the labor force and in politics. There are women who are lawyers, women who are being trained in the best institutions in the world, women who are fighting to change a system that is unfair. But the rules that prevail are still those proposed and made by men, and what women want and what men want women to want is starkly different. What woman would like to wake up every morning next to the man who raped her?
So this book is not a confession or a memoir. I am not writing it because I am angry at my mother for not liking the life I chose. If I bring myself to open up my thoughts and my experiences, it is because I feel that having spent the first fifteen years of my life growing up as a girl in Barranquilla, experiencing so closely the way men and women relate to each other in a culture suffocated by machismo, marked me indelibly. Spending the next twenty years in the United States has allowed me to step out of the stringent roles that formed me. It is scary to sometimes feel that my grandmother's submissiveness toward my grandfather is latent in me.
 
 
 
What I am proposing in this book has been said before. That in American governmental institutions and sexual relationships are tainted by a ubiquitous machismo is hardly a revelation. Thousands of theoretical papers, pamphlets, books, conferences attest to the inequalities of the genders in Latin America. But I know the difference between reading an obscure academic paper or an impenetrable treatise and reading about the experiences of women with names and faces. Before I started this book I had never heard about the First International Conference on Women held in Mexico City in 1975 nor that groups with feminist agendas have been meeting in Sao Paulo, Tegucigalpa, Bogotá, Havana, and many other Latin American cities since then. Their voices tave been heard. In 1979, the United Nations drafted the Convention on the Elimination of A11 Forms of Discrimination Against women. In the nineties, the 1992 Earth Summit in Rio de Janeiro, the 1993 Human Rights Conference in Vienna and the 1995 Social Summit in Copenhagen, all addressed women's issues. The culmination of all these progressive initiatives was the 1996 Conference on women in Beijing.
Despite their immense efforts, their voices and their propositions are rarely heard or embraced by the lady who shops in Miani with her husband's credit card or by the hard-working single mother living in a squatter's home of cardboard and zinc. Neither feels the need to visit the offices that I have visited in Sao Paulo, in Bogotá, in Managua, and in Quito. Groups like Brazil's CEPIA-which stands for Citizenship, Study, Research, Information, and Action-and Centro de Estudios e Investigaciones de la Mujer Ecuatoriana (CEIME), headed by women who have been able to
transform taboos such as domestic violence, rape, and abortion into national issues, are equally foreign to my friends' mothers and to their maids. For all the good faith, studies about gender issues are written in words that are educated, grandiose, and part of a jargon that excludes the average woman, who if raped is afraid to report it, if physically abused at home is scared to seek legal aid, if lying moribund from a clandestine abortion prefers dying to being helped by a medical doctor who might mistreat or denounce her, and upon discovering her partner is HIV-positive will obey his order and not be tested herself.
Women in Latin America are being infected with the AIDS virus at a rising pace, as in Africa and in Asia, where the ratio is reaching one female to one male. The World Health Organization, in conjuction with UNAIDS, the United Nations' AIDS program, estimates that in Brazil the male-female ratio of AIDS cases has dropped from 16:1 in 1986 to 3:1. In the United States, most of the HIV-positive women are Latinas. Most campaigns are targeted to gays and prostitutes. When I went back to The Hispanic AIDS Forum three years after my conversation with Miguelina Maldonado and asked Luis Nieves, the director for an MSM campaign, how successful it wes, he said, "I don't think we've had a married man come in yet to our meetings. The subject is waaaay too sensitive."
"How about reaching wives?"
Nieves, a counselor with years of experience, looked at me almost contemptuously. "Sure," he said. "That's going to be real easy. "
Millions of dollars have been poured into Latin America with an aim that Luis Nieves knows is as hard to achieve as conviincing the Catholic Church to distribute birth control. Pamphlets are being printed. In Brazil, I picked up Acorda, Adelaide! (Remember, Adelaide! ), which had the format of an illustrated story book. Two good friends-Nair and Adelaide-are having a coffee and a chat. Adelaide is upset. Her husband Jaime has not been home in months, and she is left to care for their children alone. " I think he is not coming back." She confesses to her friend that she misses him and she is tired of all the work. Nair reminds her that Jaime was never very helpful and that a husband at home doesn't mean help."
A few months later, the two friends see each other again. Adelaide is feeling better. She has been hanging out with Rubens, whom she has known for years. He is from the neighborhood. Nair asks her if she is taking care of herself: "Remember, Adelaide, I'm talking about AIDS. Even if you have known Rubens a long time, you don't know who he´s been with."
"Ah, Nair," Adelaide responds. "How am I going to ask a man that is being so supportive that I want him to use a condom-fica dificil . . . "
It is definitely difficult.
The work is commendable; the results are minimal. How many women have actually been able to ask their husbands to use condoms?
A nurse in a family-planning clinic in Vila Kennedy, a Rio de Janeiro favela where Acorda, Adelaide is distributed, was pleasantly surprised at the turn out to her first talk about AIDS. When she asked the fifty women what had motivated them to come, most had the same answer. It was the first time they had received any mail addressed to them. The nurse talked about AIDS and the women listened attentively. When condoms were mentioned, the women shook their heads. One raised her hand. "Could you tell that to our husbands? Mine will kick me out of the house if I suggest something of the sort."
"Ajá, " meaning right on, the rest of the women sighed.
The nurse invited the husbands for a chat t he following week. Again, she was surprised how many had agreed to accompany their wives. She gave her talk and sent the couples home with condoms. The following week, she invited the women for a followup meeting. But this time less than half showed up.
"I am sure, after they were here," she speculates, "the husbands didn't allow them to come back."
To those that did, she asked if they had used the condoms she had given them. Two raised their hands.
Globalization and the rise of AIDS has tumed the lens on the empowerment of women, a favorite buzzword of the moment for agencies of the United Nations such as the UNDP and ECOSOC, international lending organizations such as the World Bank and the International Development Bank, large foundations like Rockefeller and Ford, and smaller ones like Panos Institute and the Population Council. One can walk in the remotest village of Bolivia and find a condom stamped with the logo of the UNDP, one can open a glossy brochure of the IDB and see a photograph of a toothless woman with a caption that reads "The face of poverty is the face of a-woman." I stopped at a theatre in Copacabana on a random Saturday and was pleasantly surprised to listen to the strong words of Dr. Jonathan Mann, the world's leading AIDS activist, pronouncing, "It was only through AIDS that I realized that a patriarchal society is a threat to public health." The house came down with applause.
But Dr. Mann continues: "It is not through condoms," he says, "that we are going to change anything. We must look at laws." He always refers to the example of the group of women lawyers in Uganda who continué to fight to change property laws. Ugandan law provides that if a couple divorced, all assets, especially land, went to the husband. Women are not allowed to own land, a reason why many women were scared to divorce their husbands even though they knew about their infidelities and the risks they were taking by staying with them. -The women lawyers of Uganda continue their legal battle, knowing that when women in Uganda can own land, they are more likely to divorce their unfaithful husbands.
In this day of neoliberalism, when our countries have all their eggs in the basket of market forces and foreign investment, foreign journalists and foreign human rights groups have more impact on local legislation than any local group. If there has been attention to women's issues such as Peru's Shining Path raping women, domestic violence in Brazil, lack of accountability of violence against women in Haiti, it is not because our governments decided they are concerned about women. It is because foreign dollars will not come if they continue to be embarrassed by these reports. It takes the work of poorly funded local nongoveromental organizations and the influence of bigger human rights groups, coupled with reports by foreign journalists, to do
something. about it. Latin American countries like to say with a mouthful of pride that for the first time in history all of our governments except for Cuba's have been fairly elected. Civil society, open markets' privatizations, the rule of law are the words du jour. This new trend has relegated women's issues to the back burner. During the transitional moments, such as when it was urgent to overcome militarism in Chile, Argentina, and Brazil, women's issues were at the forefront. Today, as Latin America consolidates democracy, cuts the payrolls of bureaucracy, and invites for:eign dollars to buy cheap labor, as constitutions get rewritten as one or two women, one or two blacks, one or two indegenous leaders are made part of la politica, there is less real concern less real space for women's issues to be considered.
It is not spelled out that women make up a vital part of the low-skilled, low-paid labor force. To lare foreign capital, our countries are selling the cheapest labor possible. The labor force in these Maquiladoras-assembling baseballs, T-shirts, and microchips for foreign markets-is eighty percent female. Democracies Wil1 never be solidified while women lack real economic independence, no't just a job that keeps them poor and second-class citizens according t o our customary law and social codes. It is a step in the right direction that Latin American countries are having clean elections, but as long as women are still kept out of the political process, it is a mockery and a falsity to call it democracy. Regardlless of Violeta de Chamorro, Noemi Sanin, Maria Emma
Mejia, Rosario Green and Irene Saez, la politica sigue siendo asunto de hombres. In 1994, two women ran for the presidency of Peru six for the vice presidency. But as well-known political analyst Mirko Lauer told the New York Times: "These women are not really running as women. They are running as any other politician would. Neither of these women [running for president] has a feminist platform, and they are not putting forward feminist demands. They are running within the macho context.
This book attempts to clarify why the face of poverty is illustrated in IDB brochures as the face of a woman, why more than half of tlte poor households in Latin America are headed by single mothers, why married women are at higher risk of contracting AIDS than a prostitute, why more than eighty percent of the married women who test HIV-positive were infected through the bisexual behavior of their husbands, why the Catholic Church is putting women at risk by forbidding condoms and legal abortions. None of these situations are independent, but they are intrinsically linked with the nature of our culture, our government, and our religion.
If I have a message in this book, it is to lay out an alternative to what our grandmothers and mothers, our teachers and priests wanted us to be, and what the men we are to marry feel most comfortable with. Marriage and motherhood, although important parts of who we are as women, cannot be the sole and total path to our identity as women. Having a choice in whatever we decide to do, from getting married to getting pregnant, can feel as natural and as imperative as going to Mass, to lunch, to the hairdresser. The Virgin Mary and Miss Colombia cannot continue being our role models. We need to introduce an alternative to the dichotomy between a "good woman" and una mala mujer; there is something between mother and whore. The definition of "good" need not entail being virginal and submissive. To be self-assured and independent does not mean we are whores. Meanwhile, for starters, I propose that we make our women politicians talk about legalizing abortion, our soap-opera heroines have orgasms, our beauty queens have better hobbies than collecting bathing suits and tomar el sol, our love ballads impart messages that give women strength and not tell them to just live for romance. Anything that keeps us from thinking that women don't have to think because men think for us. It is okay-no, it is indispensable-to think.
When I write about this, I feel the sturdiness of my convictions. When I walk into Ana María's life, my whole body wobbles. All the things I feel strongly about and proud of disappear the moment I'm presented with the picture of what I was supposed to become and didn't. Whenever I witness a husband calling his wife from his cellular phone 'simply to say hello, to ask about the children, to say "I love you" in between his important meetings, I feel I am exaggerating But it takes about a second to feel reassured when I walk into a mixed gathering and see the men on one side of the room talking about the possibility of a coup or the naming of a new cabinet while the women are on the other side talking about what dirty words their children are learning at school and the youth concerts at the Alliance Française. Then I wonder if they feel as left out as I do. I'm happy I didn't marry in Barranquilla where a woman is a quedada, a spinster, at twenty, and old by twenty-five whether she is a married woman or a whore. A few years back, my favorite relative and his wife invited me to dinner at Steak and Salads, one of the few trendy restaurants in town. "But you know what it is really called," my kinsman said to me. " Not Steak and Salads but The Flea Market. You know why, right? " I had no clue. "Come on, sweetie, pretty simple. It's where the separadas and the divorciadas come," he said."What do divorced and separated women have to do with anything?" I asked. "What do they sell at the mercado de Las pulgas? Pues, they sellwhat has already been used, no?" His wife laughed, and I was swallowing fire hating a person I had known and loved all my life. Would I too have laughed if I had stayed in Barranquilla, if I had not left when I was fifteen and spent twenty years in a land that has made me into una mujer liberada, which is not very different from libertina?
I felt fortunate that I had not married José Luis or Arturo. AsI said before, I preferred Arturo, but by the time I was fourteen José Luis was mi novio, which translates as boyfriend but signgfies much more of a formal arrangement. I stopped being Silvana,who I liked being, and became known as la novia de José Luis, whoI didn't like being. It was pretty much taken for granted that one day we would marry. He was the perfect candidate for a niñabien, a niña del Country, a good girl like me. He came from aprominent family. We were Conservatives and they were Liberals and it would have been better if the families' politics could have
matched, but apart from that there really were no peros, no buts. Al contrario, few families in Barranquilla qualified better-good, decent people, lo major de lo major de Barranquilla, una buena familia cristiana. His father was one of the most influential politica1 leaders on the Colombian coast, and had also served as minister And his mother, everyone agreed, was a dear, dear woman, un amor.
José Luis and I met because there was no way we could not. He was three years older, no one in Barranquilla goes out with someone their same age, the boy has to be older. We went to the same school, we swam in the same pool and at the same beach, we asked the same waiter at the club for grilled sandwiches de queso. I was fourteen and I liked having his attention because I knew that he was considered cute by the older girls, especially those from Marymount, the rival school. At seventeen, he not only drove his own car but it was the coolest car in town-a silver race car that his father had bought for him at the car fair in Bogotá, the only one like it in the entire city.
I never asked myself if I liked him. It was enough that he liked me, and that was obvious. Every day after school, he drove by my house playing Barry White's "You're My First, My Last, My Everything" so loudly that it was impossible not to know he was outside. I would be in my room getting ready for my French lesson listening to Barry's deep voice blaring out on the street. One day on the beach he told me he would swim to the farthest rock and back without coming up to catch his breath to show me that I was his girl. I nodded my head and accepted this bizarre-and macho?-proof of his love. At fourteen, I was flattered by his attention and I didn't think I had a choice. It's what happens, what is supposed to happen A boy sees you and decides to be with you, and you say yes. When I saw a photograph of my parents and his parents sharing champagne at a New Yearts Eve party when they were in their early twenties, I thought it was fate. It was romantic like the songs.
Soon after that I was walking into the Country Club holding his hand, which meant we were serious novios. I watched him play soccer, waited for his sweaty kiss after the game and for his phone call every night at seven sharp. While he waited for me on Friday nights, my father would ask him to say hello to his father and would remind him that I was to be home by midflight.
José Luis respected my father's curfew more than I did. I asked him to ignore the rule many times, but he made sure I was home fie minutes, even a quarter hour, before. He didn't want to be on mi father's bad list, but I now know that he was also in a hurry to get rid of me. His friends would be waiting for him to go to El Gusano, the dark dungeon like nightclub, where privileged young men like him and privileged and important married men would met once they assured themselves their wives and novias were safe at home. Other women wore there. The guys in drag who walked up and down the boulevard were also regulars. The place was so dark that it was sometimes hard to know who you were baling or dancing with. Patrons wore assured anonymity by the intensity of the darkness. To find a customer a table, the ushers used flashlights.
El Gusano's exterior, a huge green worm made of papier-maché, sat in cogruously next to the imposing arches of the Hotel del Prado ad the Art Deco mansions built in the 1920s when Barranuilla was a becoming port town at the mouth of the Magualca River, whose brown waters moved more than eighty percent of the country's commerce. It was in Barranquilla, not in Bogotá,he capital, that the busiest U.S. consulate operated. With the boom came the American ship captains, customs brokers, and representatives of American companies, and Barranquilla went from being a provincial hamlet to a version of the American dream in the tropics. In 1930 it had its own branches of the Rotary Club and the Lions Club and an American Men's Association. Tk city's first newspaper, the Old Reliable, was printed in English.
With a few hundred thousand dollars and the promise of providing sophistication, Karl C. Parrish, an entrepreneur from Boston arrived in Barranquilla and sold to the up-and-coming merchants and rich landowners a chance for gentrification. He sold tha the dream of suburbia, and I was born in the modern and opulent barrio with wide avenues, green lawns, large homes, a club With a pool, clay tennis courts, and eighteen holes of golf. We hadrmajestic hotel, a few churches, and an American school, named after Mr. Parrish, where we learned everything from old textbooks from the United States Department of Defense. When an eccentric resident of the Bario El Prado decided to open a discotheque in the 1970s, El Gusano's big yellow antennas, as high as the spire of the Iglesia de la Inmaculada, looked as if a float from Carnival had been abandoned on the main boulevard of this Latin suburban fantasia and the city's sanitation department had forgotten to remove it.
It was hard to miss El Gusano, especially because it was a place associated with mystery and men. After dropping me off on Friday nights, José Luis's car would remain parked next to the worm's mouth sometimes until very early the next morning. I was so curious about this place that I told him one night I would not go home unless I went inside.
" Your father said midnight, and I will make sure you are home by quarter to."
"But I don't care."
"I do, and you are with me. Anyway, El Gusano is not a place for you. "
"Why not? "
"It just isn't and you are not coming tonight."
"I'll never see you again."
I was fierce and I knew those words made José Luis tremble.
"Mi amor, please, I promise I'll take you tomorrow, okay? "
I believed him, but what he meant was he was taking me in the middle of the afternoon. The owner ordered the employees to open up the place for me, and I was escorted inside a damp tunnel that smelled like the dose where my grandmother locked the caramelos Kraft, the Venezuelan almonds, and the jabón de pera to keep them out of the reach of the maids and her dozen grandchildren. The Worm was an ugly room with aluminum tables, carpet on the walls, chairs with cigarette holes and tacky and dirty upholstery, a bar, and two parquet dance floors.
"< Contenta? he said, hugging me as I walked out.
I ran into one of José Luis's Friday night buddies a few years ago. He was with his wife, the girl he married at eighteen because she was pregnant. They introduced me to their children, a teenage boy with long hair and a younger pretty girl, and asked me about mine.
 
 
 
" I don't have any, " I replied, by now used to the question.
"You mean, none. Aren't you married yet?"
"No."
"What, then, are you doing in New York? I thought you had married a gringo. "
"No," I said. "I just live there."
"Why? "
" I like it. "
"What do you do?" he asked.
"I'm a journalist."
"You are what? A journalist? Why there? I mean"-he was truly surprised-"you live in New York, you are a journalist in New York, when all you had to do was marryJosé Luis and own a media empire? "
For him, my choice made no sense.
I could have been the wife and the mother of the children of an heir or a grand landowner or a future politician, as was in my cards. If I had stayed in Barranquilla, would I be satisfied wearing clothes from Miami, having my hair done weekly, running a house with the help of poor, uneducated women? But how would I have reacted every time my husband told me, sometimes ordered me, where and with whom I was allowed to go? Would I, as a mother taking care of a beautiful home and children, even have known that AIDS was something that needed to cross my mind?
This wife standing in front of me and asking me about my life in New York, has she ever thought that she could be HIV-positive? José Luis and his buddies, let alone their wives, do not realize that the threat of AIDS is doser to them than the slums they try so hard to avoid every time they drive out to the airport to spend a weekend in Bogotá or to take the kids to Disney World and then go shopping in Miami.
One thing that always warms my heart about Barranquilla is that people are really interested to know what you are doing. Acquaintances can be as straightforward-as nosy, opinionated, and obnoxious-as family members. But their sincerity and their calor, their warmth, has always touched me.
 
"I'm writing a book."
"About what?"
I could not bring myself to say that it explains how women like his wife are at higher risk of contracting AIDS than a prostitute, how T think men like him control our lives, how we have the right to be sexual, to have a sate abortion, to know about safe sex, to an education.
I moved to the States before I could get trapped by pregnancy and, unlike my friends, discovered my sexuality while remaining single. That makes me an oddball back home. Like them, I was surrounded by family and friends who looked and thought alike. I had a privileged upbringing in the land of García Márquez's magical realism, inside a society where men are permitted anything and women are confined to strict, traditional roles. I grew up around women whose lives revolved around the lives of their men, and then around gossip, the importance of last names, and the Church. When I graduated from the University of Michigan, I called my grandmother, bedridden with a very advanced cancer. I knew her days were few. Her body, she told me, was being invaded as fast as the Malvinas, referring to the Falklands, the British islands that the Argentine military had tried to daim that year. To cheer her up, I told her that she could boast in front of her bridge partners that her nieta had a university degrce.
"I'd rather tell them my granddaughter has a husband," she replied.
I was twenty-one.
Living in the United States put me in touch with women who thought differently from those I had always been surrounded by: women who have careers and who are successful, women who see the world, try to understand it, try sometimes to change it. It was in this country t that I learned the jargon of equality, independence, and empowerment. I arrived in Ann Arbor wearing gold Charles Jourdan heels, Calvin Klein jeans, and barrettes on each side of my long hair. The first day of class I wore a flowing yellow gingham dress and found a class filled with students wearing ripped jeans and a professor who cursed his country.
"Fuck U.S. foreign policy," he said, speaking about support for the Shah of Iran. A week later he showed us Hearts and Minds, the Pulitzer-winning documentary on Vietnam, and the carpet was taken from under my feet. I was appalled by U.S. involvement the gold United States of America, and fascinated by the possibility of criticism, of confrontation of the status quo. In Ann Arbor learned about Latin America, a Latin America that was as foreigners the feel of the winter clothes I had to wear to walk to class a place whose trees lost leaves, and changed colors. I spoke about Latin America in English, in political science language marched to protest U.S. presence in El Salvador. I served as the translator for conferences on labor movements. I helped create solidarity network with Nicaragua when the Sandinistas took over But I never questioned the condition of women. I still expect) my date to pay for me, as I had been taught.
Slowly I learned that in the United States I had the option of taking care of myself, that paying for myself was not a humiliation as my grandfather suggested. I slowly was able to learn that it was up to me who to kiss and who not to kiss, when to get pregnant and who not to. And it was sitting in the offices of the Hispanic AIDS from in Queens, New York, that I made an immediate connection between the letters MSM and my friends back home.
Apart from my own projection of what could have happened to me had I stayed, or my criticism of Arturo as vice-minister José Luis as the powerful scion, my brother eager to support the Conservative Party, and my childhood girlfriends ready to take on traditional roles, I am most interested in the fact that en la politica womens issues are relegated, set aside, both by the right and by the left. Women's issues are equally unimportant to the Conservative Party in Colombia, which has no women in its directorate and to Brazil's Partido dos Trabalhadores, perhaps the most progressive party in Latin America today, a labor party that has a thirty-percent quota for women
Most latin American women are not as interested in politics as they e in the rituals of the Catholic Church. The women I knew ore delicate crosses, medallitas, rosaries around their necks. They said, borrowed, played the lottery, whatever it took to pay for a tour to Europe that included a visit to the Vatican. Going to Saint Peter's Square for a Sunday Mass and a benediction by the pope was a lifelong dream. Beauty queens are quick to answer that the person they admire the most is the Pope and mi papá- obedient daughters to God and to the law, fit to represent the country. But going to Mass, lighting candles, rezar novenas, and not eating meat on Fridays during Lent is not going to protect them from getting pregnant, or make a man stop having sex without a condom.
To seek hope in liberation theology is disappointing. In the 1970s, brave priests challenged the orthodoxy of Rome, became political activists denouncing right-wing military dictatorships, and sided with the marginal and the poor. With the concept of comunidades de base, base communities, they organized entire neighborhoods to rise against the harsh economic conditions. Women were seminal supporters of the call; as housewives they knew how hard it was to make ends meet. They were encouraged to organize as citizens and demand better conditions for their husbands and for their children. But anything close to demanding better conditions for themselves as women was not only untouched but down right discouraged. In Brazil, Dom Helder Camara talked about the injustices of poverty but not about domestic violence.
Same goes for leftist politics. Lula, the figurehead of the PT and a metallurgical union organizer, talks about the dangers of privatizations and the structural adjustments of the World Bank but will never be in favor of legal abortions: his alliance with left-leaning priests would be forever severed. Lula will criticize economic policies while supporting the traditional stance of the Church when it comes to women's reproductive rights. Can there be social justice without equality of gender?
It is not surprising that in the seventies, General Augusto Pinochet told women that their duty was to be "mothers of the homeland" and proclaimed that "sacrifice, abnegation, service, honesty, diligence, and responsibility" were to be women's chief characteristics. Millions of Chile's women supported this view along with his repressive and murderous regime. As for the left, it was just as male chauvinist as Pinochet. In Nicaragua, Daniel Ortega promised to fight poverty, but when the state-funded women's agency proposed to legalize abortion, Ortega said that chaos ing not to give birth was counterrevolutionary and depleted the country of its much needed youth. Would it be any different today?
The situation is not encouraging. Not only are men not interested in giving up more than a few token openings to women, but in important governmental positions one sees only women who are not ready to be outspoken about women's issues. When Mujer asked Noemí Sanín, Colombia's presidential candidate, what she thought about abortion, her answer is not only ambiguous and full of hyperbole but basically pro-life: "I respect life in whatever form, but I believe that abortion should not be penalized by law or with prison: the woman who aborts suffers so much that it is punishment enough."
 
1 am aware that all this can be described as the lament of a bourgeois girl who traveled a little and became some what liberated. My words can be dismissed as the rantings of privilege. Poor and working-class women, mestizas and mulattas, are exploited by a capitalist system, by a privileged class of which I, by virtue of birth, am a member. But regardless of these distinctions, as women we all live within the confines of the structure of patriarchal domination. Regardless of our position in a society divided by class, we as Latin American women know domestic violence, economic dependence, sexual aggression, discrimination in the workplace, lack of reproductive choice, and clandestine abortions. Soon we are also going to know how vulnerable we are to AIDS.
In the age of AIDS, men's control over their women's lives is literally life-threatening for many wives. In Mexico City, Rio de Janeiro, and Bogotá I've met young widows who knew their husbands had AIDS only after their deaths. A brave nurse in Bogotá explained to me how difficult it was for her to convince women to get themselves tested. Usually once the husbands find out they are HIV-positive they "do not even allow them to go to the hospital by themselves." Like the de after Ana María's name, commonly used verbs such as "to ask for permission" and "to allow" have felt as uncomfortable and as wrong as when José Luis would ask me to change my clothes. When I refused to wear a longer skirt, my punishment was José Luis's anger. Today, to have to do something because I say so" endangers more than a woman's independence or sense of self, such submissiveness may endanger her life.